Last week Raf Simons left Dior after only three and a half year tenure. Some weeks before that, Alexander Wang exited Balenciaga. Both designers cited the desire to concentrate on their own brands as the main reason for leaving and made the obligatory public statements of gratitude to their corporate employers. But some in the fashion press took the opportunity to voice the old refrain – the fashion system is broken and it needs to be fixed.
It used to be that when a designer showed an item in a particular season and you did not get a chance to buy it, you were out of luck. And if you really wanted it, a hunt ensued. You would call stores in other cities. You would pray that the item would pop-up on Ebay or Yoox in your size, or at your local consignment store. Or you would have to accept defeat.
But as designers have become savvier at business, they realized that if the customer wants something, they should give it to them, again and again. Perhaps they learned the lesson from watching luxury houses fling it-bags season after season with great commercial success. If it could be done with bags, why not with clothes?
Photographer: Wenjun Liang, Model: Yudu Zheng @ IMG, Stylist: Christine de Lassus @ Art Department, Stylist Assistant: Armando Figueredo, Make Up: Miguel Lledo, Hair : Shinya Nakagawa
The other week Rick Owens opened his first LA store inside a former ribbon factory. The 5,200-square-foot concrete, brutalist space was designed by architect Anna Tumani, a long time collaborator. Main features of the store include a fog emitting wall and a floor to ceiling tank.
If you find yourself in Tokyo in the next few months be sure to visit the 25-year retrospective of Undercover, called Labyrinth of Undercover, which opened last weekend. We were privileged to get a preview of the exhibit last Friday. The show is divided into several spaces. The first part lets the viewer immerse himself into the videos of Undercover shows. The videos are decidedly low-fi and unedited, so you can spend a lot of time in those rooms getting lost (in the best sense of the word) in the footage.
We would like to present to you Iris van Herpen’s Spring/Summer 2016 Women’s collection backstage.
We would like to present to you Sacai’s Spring/Summer 2016 Women’s collection backstage.
We would like to present to you A.F. Vandevorst’s Spring/Summer 2016 Women’s collection backstage.
We would like to present to you Geoffrey B. Small’s Spring/Summer 2016 Women’s collection. Photography by Guido Barbagelata.
We would like to present to you Vetements’ Spring/Summer 2016 Women’s collection.