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11 BY BORIS BIDJAN SABERI F/W 15

We would like to present to you 11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection “Snow Bleach” lookbook. The collection alludes to mountain soldiers and the camouflage used in snowy surroundings. The use of bleach mimics the uniforms, used on cashmere, felted wool and flannel. These natural fabrics are complemented by the ripstop and reflective technical ones.

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Showroom: Mad et Len

On a recent trip to Paris I visited the showroom our favorite perfumer, Mad et Len. Moving to a dedicated showroom has allowed the brand to fully showcase its universe, which includes candles, lava rock home scents, and blackened iron objects hammered by hand. At the core of Mad et Len’s ethos is combining the light and the ethereal  (scent) with the dark and earthy (hammered iron).

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The Last Conspiracy

These days when fashion increasingly seems to be on one continuous treadmill, it is becoming increasingly difficult to slow things down, to approach craftsmanship with care that a well-made product demands.

On a recent journey towards the historic ateliers of The Last Conspiracy, a Denmark-based footwear company, tucked away on a hillside just outside Porto, the second largest city in Portugal, I got a glimpse into how things can still be made the traditional way. The story of Roald Nore, a creative nomad and the brand’s founder, begins with his desire to make something genuine and lasting.

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WORK:SPACE – GUIDI

Some time ago I visited the GUIDI tannery in Italy, nestled among the hills of Tuscany.​ GUIDI is one of the best tanneries that still employ traditional tanning methods, such as vegetable tanning. I witnessed the processing of the hides and the finishing applied to GUIDI’s footwear and bags. Below is my photo reportage.

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DEBORAH TURBEVILLE UNSEEN VERSAILLES REVISITED

I had forgotten that Doubleday editor Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis originally commissioned the photographs from Unseen Versailles by the late Deborah Turbeville that are on view at Staley Wise in 1981.  The mind at first could not, perhaps did not, want to reconcile the withdrawn, intimate vision that is Turbeville’s with the stately, public and, one imagines, rigid New York of Kennedy Onassis.

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Work:Space – Werkstatt:Munchen

Recently I visited the workspace of the German jewelery maker Werkstatt:Munchen. Their studio is located in the center of Munich in the former foundry. Keeping with his label’s ethos of craftsmanship, Klaus Lohmeyer left the raw space intact. Hidden in a courtyard behind closed doors, this hidden gem of industrial space contrasts greatly with its clean-cut surroundings.