Some time ago in Paris at a men’s show of the cult Japanese label Julius I found myself sitting next to the singer Usher. As I was chatting with his companion, Grace, I could not help but wonder what Usher was doing in a dark, cavernous space, looking at the goth aesthetic of black leathers and drapey wools that Tatsuro Horikawa, Julius’s designer, sent down the runway. And, I also wondered, where are the rockers?
Thom Browne womens’s spring/summer 2015, New York backstage.
Photographer – Markus Lambert @ MarkusLambert.com | Styling – Leonie von Lieres & Guido Werth @ Kollektivnoir; Model – Lida Fox @ Next Models | Hair – Javier Palacio | Makeup – Thomas Lorenz Using Chanel
Last Friday Boris Bidjan Saberi opened his first flagship store in New York City. Below is our coverage of the event.
Yesterday we co-hosted the New York launch of a special collaboration between the Dutch designer Iris van Herpen and Dom Perignon, for whom van Herpen designed a bottle. The theme for this collaboration is METAMORPHOSIS, as a Dom Perignon agent told us, and van Herpen, whose work has a distinct otherworldly bent, seemed like a perfect candidate.
If, dear reader, when in London and walking down Oxford Street, you spot what looks like a giant Rick Owens towering over the double-decker buses and waving what looks like a giant Olympic torch, fear not: you are not hallucinating. A polysterene torso of the designer, made by the British sculptor Doug Jennings (creator of the (in)famous statue of Owens pissing) and weighing a humble 1.5 tons, was erected yesterday on Selfridges façade to celebrate twenty years since the inception of the label and the opening of “The World of Rick Owens” project in store.
One early evening this January I was walking to a Thom Browne show in New York’s West Chelsea neighborhood, chatting with the Italian fashion journalist Angelo Flaccavento, when a commotion broke out right in front of us. We were forced to slow down as Michelle Harper, a street style bait known for nothing in particular except wearing outré outfits at fashion shows, sprung seemingly out of nowhere, decked out in the latest Browne couture-like outfit, street style photographers pouncing on her like wildcats on prey. Harper’s outfit, with carefully constructed white cotton spikes, did not allow for a jacket and even though I was freezing in my down parka she braved the cold so she could be photographed. As she teetered on her high heels on a narrow and icy sidewalk the photographers fought for space. One slipped and almost fell. Another risked getting hit by a car
Last winter I found myself wearing the same thing over and over again, literally. Every time I had to run out of the house in the blistering New York cold and a mixture of slush and snow, I reached for my Rick Owens down parka and side-zip boots with a creeper sole, into which I tucked the pant legs of a pair of black jeans. When the New York fashion week came in February, I could not care less for being seen in the same clothes day after day. It was an outfit I felt at ease with, knowing that it looked good and felt comfortable. I saw no reason to change it up.
This past Tuesday the Belgian brand A.F. Vandevorst opened their first flagship store in Antwerp. The decision to stay in their hometown despite their global presence follows long tradition of the likes of Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten, who also opened their first flagship stores here. “Antwerp is our home, our base, the heart of our work. We have direct contact with the women who find their way to or in our collections,” the designers An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx told us.
This season the Russian-born designer Alexandre Plokhov is releasing a limited edition t-shirt with the band Cold Cave as part of his Fall/Winter 2014 collection. We like the idea of a band t-shirt without it being a band t-shirt, something abstract and elegant. Both creators, Wesley Eisold of Cold Cave and Alexandre Plokhov, admired each other’s work before they met, and this collaboration almost seems like it was meant to be.