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InAisce Installation/Trunk Show at Atelier

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Yesterday I stopped by the installation/trunk show of the New York label InAisce held in West SoHo at the menswear boutique Atelier. It is a first event of this kind for InAisce, where you can view the entire Fall/Winter 2013 men’s and women’s collections, pre-order the garments that you like, and chat with the entire InAisce team. You can also check out the remarkable wool felt pieces by the Dutch artist Claudy Yongstra.  The trunk show will go on through today.

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Studio Visit: Alexandre Plokhov

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Yesterday I visited Alexandre Plokhov’s studio in New York’s Flatiron district to check out his Fall/Winter 2013 collection. Plokhov was in a pretty serene mood despite his mind-boggling schedule (he was hopping on the plane the same afternoon to go to Premiere Vision in Paris.).

The collection reflected Plokhov’s continuous refinement of his style. In a way Plokhov presented a full wardrobe, from the most casual to the most sophisticated looks – there was even his version of a tuxedo (perhaps for our fist black tie party?).

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Lost & Found FW13, Paris

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Lost & Found is one of our favourite labels to visit, not just for the heartful welcome given by designer Ria Dunn and her husband Alessandro Esteri, but also because they are consistent in presenting a strong and beautiful collection season after season. Fall-winter 2013-14 was no exception, this time introducing some more technical materials alongside the raw edged knits and leathers in earth-toned colours and of course, black. The signature voluminous cuts were there in the form of pants and overcoats, counterbalanced by a hooded parka/poncho in black tech-fabric, or a thick black shearling jacket with heavy-duty zippers.

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SONG FOR THE MUTE FW13: “SEPTIÈME”

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Australian label Song for the Mute presented its 7th collection during men’s fashion week in Paris. This season, the collection also features heavier weight pieces for the winter, and creates an interesting correlation between hard and soft -sharply cut and tailored garments as well as more relaxes and comfortable ones. The materials used, many created from scratch together with fabric mills in Italy and Japan, strike a similar balance. Where as some have a soft and organic feel, others are made rigid and crisp, such as a paraffin coated cotton and fireproof quilting.

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Boris Bidjan Saberi FW13

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On a snowy and gloomy sunday afternoon last week, the Stylezeitgeist crew invaded the showroom of Boris Bidjan Saberi, hidden inside the massive Institut Français de la Mode on the left bank of Seine. The runway show, which had taken place the day before, showcased the fall-winter 2013-14 collection in a way which could perhaps be described as restrained and refined, sparking some speculation whether Saberi had steered away from his street-influenced style. But the full collection on display told another story; while there were certain mature elements such as his signature blazers, button up shirts and loosely cut trousers, they were balanced by aggressive, armor-like leather jackets, slim pants and jeans in heavily treated fabrics as well as garments using technical materials and construction methods.

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Tobias Wistisen Jewelry

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Two days ago, Daniel and I were sitting in a cafe in Paris and he said, “We should’ve tracked down Tobias Wistisen since we are here; he makes great jewelry.” That’s why I was pleasantly surprised to find Wistisen a few hours later at the Tranoi fair. The Danish designer cut his teeth assisting John Galliano, but he was inevitably drawn to jewelry design. “Paris has a deep tradition of jewelry making,” he told me. Wistisen works with artisans many of whom are well into their 60s and 70s, and he is taking full advantage of their skills. “They get so excited when you ask them to experiment,” said Wistisen, “because they are tired of making wedding bands.” That’s where Wistisen comes in with his unconventional designs and unusual metal treatments.