This past Tuesday the Belgian brand A.F. Vandevorst opened their first flagship store in Antwerp. The decision to stay in their hometown despite their global presence follows long tradition of the likes of Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten, who also opened their first flagship stores here. “Antwerp is our home, our base, the heart of our work. We have direct contact with the women who find their way to or in our collections,” the designers An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx told us.
This season the Russian-born designer Alexandre Plokhov is releasing a limited edition t-shirt with the band Cold Cave as part of his Fall/Winter 2014 collection. We like the idea of a band t-shirt without it being a band t-shirt, something abstract and elegant. Both creators, Wesley Eisold of Cold Cave and Alexandre Plokhov, admired each other’s work before they met, and this collaboration almost seems like it was meant to be.
We would like to present to you Thamanyah’s Spring/Summer 2015 menswear lookbook.
We would like to present to you Lee Roach’s Fall/Winter 2014 menswear collection.
e would like to present to you Daniel Andresen’s Fall/Winter 2014 lookbook.
During this past menswear week the Japanese label Undercover held an intimate presentation of its menswear collection. This was a welcome move, as usually Jun Takahashi shows the men’s collection alongside his womenswear. The central theme of the collection was the band Television. Since you have probably seen the look book elsewhere, I wanted to share with you some detail shots that I took during the presentation.
We would like to present to you Cedric Jacquemyn’s Spring/Summer 2015 Men’s lookbook.
Thom Browne men’s spring/summer 2015, Paris backstage.
Boris Bidjan Saberi men’s spring/summer 2015, Paris backstage
As I am being airborne back to New York, I wanted to share a few thoughts on the menswear season that just ended. My adventures started at Pitti Uomo in Florence, where I go every season to report for Diane Pernet and other media. I’ve been coming here for six years and when I began doing so I would have to look far and wide to see another person dressed in black at a place where suit is king. This has been slowly changing, and I begin to see “people in black” among the sea of color of Pitti Uomo’s attendees. There is also a steady trickle of exhibitors mining the goth aesthetic. Several of them suggested that they should be in the same pavilion in order to make a statement, which is not a bad idea.