IMG_8764

SONG FOR THE MUTE FW13: “SEPTIÈME”

Australian label Song for the Mute presented its 7th collection during men’s fashion week in Paris. This season, the collection also features heavier weight pieces for the winter, and creates an interesting correlation between hard and soft -sharply cut and tailored garments as well as more relaxes and comfortable ones. The materials used, many created from scratch together with fabric mills in Italy and Japan, strike a similar balance. Where as some have a soft and organic feel, others are made rigid and crisp, such as a paraffin coated cotton and fireproof quilting.

bbsfw13-06

Boris Bidjan Saberi FW13

On a snowy and gloomy sunday afternoon last week, the Stylezeitgeist crew invaded the showroom of Boris Bidjan Saberi, hidden inside the massive Institut Français de la Mode on the left bank of Seine. The runway show, which had taken place the day before, showcased the fall-winter 2013-14 collection in a way which could perhaps be described as restrained and refined, sparking some speculation whether Saberi had steered away from his street-influenced style. But the full collection on display told another story; while there were certain mature elements such as his signature blazers, button up shirts and loosely cut trousers, they were balanced by aggressive, armor-like leather jackets, slim pants and jeans in heavily treated fabrics as well as garments using technical materials and construction methods.

IMG_2639

Tobias Wistisen Jewelry

Two days ago, Daniel and I were sitting in a cafe in Paris and he said, “We should’ve tracked down Tobias Wistisen since we are here; he makes great jewelry.” That’s why I was pleasantly surprised to find Wistisen a few hours later at the Tranoi fair. The Danish designer cut his teeth assisting John Galliano, but he was inevitably drawn to jewelry design. “Paris has a deep tradition of jewelry making,” he told me. Wistisen works with artisans many of whom are well into their 60s and 70s, and he is taking full advantage of their skills. “They get so excited when you ask them to experiment,” said Wistisen, “because they are tired of making wedding bands.” That’s where Wistisen comes in with his unconventional designs and unusual metal treatments.

IMG_2343

Werkstatt Munchen at L’Eclaireur

If you happen to be in Paris during the men’s fashion week, make sure to stop by L’Eclaireur on Rue Herold where the artisanal jeweler Werkstatt Munchen set up the most comprehensive installation of their work to date. Along the classic products, WM are displaying their forays into mixing siliver with leather to make belts, bracelets, and a tote.