The new exhibit by the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Camp: Notes on Fashion, is fraught on many levels, starting with a paradoxical nature of its theme. On the surface (no pun intended) Camp is not hard to spot because it’s so image-oriented. In reality the playfulness and irony inherent to Camp makes it elusive and intuitive. Like any sensibility or a matter of taste, Camp requires from its audience organic growth and (self)education. You can’t really stuff all of these things into a museum exhibit that is aimed at the general public – and the job of the Met is to cater to the general public. It’s especially hard to do because Camp is a fairly niche sensibility – there is something subcultural and underground in it. Camp takes pleasure in being stuck into people’s faces without them getting it. Really, it’s kind of the point.
Feature and Op-Ed articles
During this past fashion show season one of the most talked about collections was the runway debut of Bottega Veneta under its new creative director, Daniel Lee.
Paris, France – Live, reporting from another mixed season, which is better than reporting from a bad one, and pretty good as far as things go in fashion these days.
As I am writing this, I’ve gotten a chance to read a couple of reviews by the few critics I respect, and I am finding myself in an unusual position of an optimist.
And so it was on again, amidst confusion as to what designers should be designing and whom they should be catering to.
Last year the blogger Venkatesh Rao coined the term “premium mediocre.” He was referring to a segment of economic activity largely dreamed up by marketers to give the consumerist masses an illusion that they are consuming luxury, when they were doing nothing of the sort.
The Culture Ltd. is the new underground clothing label designed by Misaki Van Kampen.
Paris greeted me and the rest of the fashion circus with incredible weather – a rarity in my recent memory, as usually I find myself dying of heat or freezing to death.
Nine years ago the now-defunct website Mekas posted a fascinating interview with the brilliant Japanese fashion critic Takeji Hirakawa, in which he held forth on the state of fashion, Japanese youth culture, Undercover, Number (N)ine, and Comme des Garcons, among other topics.
The fashion calendar is getting weirder and weirder.