“Nothing,” answered a prominent New York buyer when I asked her what she liked during this past men’s fashion week. While I wouldn’t go this far, the Spring/Summer 2016 season was decidedly mixed. The overarching question, which began forming in my head during the first day of shows in Paris was, “What makes a good collection?” Is it the theme or its execution? Do we look for a designer to tell an interesting story, to interpret a theme worth exploring through clothes, or to produce beautiful, interestingly constructed garments? Ideally, both.
Boris Bidjan Saberi spring-summer 2016, Paris.
The Barcelona-based fashion designer Boris Bidjan Saberi has revealed his new capsule of home fragrances in collaboration with the French scent maker Mad et Len. The collection consists of two candles and two scented lava stone jars. The main scent note is vegetable tanned horse leather. Needless to say, it’s an olfactory match made in heaven.
We would like to present to you 11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection “Snow Bleach” lookbook. The collection alludes to mountain soldiers and the camouflage used in snowy surroundings. The use of bleach mimics the uniforms, used on cashmere, felted wool and flannel. These natural fabrics are complemented by the ripstop and reflective technical ones.
Let me get something out of the way – though my writing is critical more often than not, I don’t particularly enjoy blasting fashion. So, it is with a certain elation I would like to report that this past men’s fashion week in Paris was one of the strongest I’ve seen in a while.
For me it began last Wednesday night when Haider Ackermann presented his most convincing collection yet. Everything seemed to coalesce – from the muted but rich color palette to lush fabrics to nonchalant styling. It was presented at the Galleria museum, and the presentation and the clothes were just the right shade of decadence, a fantasy world of the rich and idle whose saving grace is impeccable education and impeccable manners.
Boris Bidjan Saberi fall-winter 2015, Paris.