Paris, France – “Dries, now there is a real designer,” sighed my AirBnB landlord, after expressing his frustration about working for a major, and majorly uninspiring Parisian house. Indeed, he is and he proved it yet again with another sublime show. Each seat had a red rose on it with handwritten “DVN” X some other initials, which I only understood were that of Christian Lacroix, the legendary Parisian designer whose label has been defunct for some time and whom Van Noten brought on to collaborate for this collection. This was a “collab” in the Van Noten vein – a sign of mutual respect that did not stink of a money grab like many collaborations do. It was soulful, not cynical. And the clothes were sublime, with faint military influences on some pieces and with couture-like shapes on others that had Lacroix’s signature on them. Of course there were explosion of flowers, color, and couture-like embroidery. When Dries Van Noten brought Lacroix for the final bow it was a fashion moment fo sure. This was a longing for an idealized past of the kind I can get behind – bringing out people to refresh our collective fashion amnesia. Which made me think that we are not exactly forgetful – we do remember the greats… when we are reminded of their existence.
Nothing in fashion is constant, but knowing that Chitose Abe at Sacai will present a great collection comes pretty close.
Wednesday morning I stopped by the Visvim showroom, where Hiroki Nakamura presented his new collection.
Paris, France – Live, reporting from another mixed season, which is better than reporting from a bad one, and pretty good as far as things go in fashion these days.
And so it was on again, amidst confusion as to what designers should be designing and whom they should be catering to.
Paris greeted me and the rest of the fashion circus with incredible weather – a rarity in my recent memory, as usually I find myself dying of heat or freezing to death.
The fashion calendar is getting weirder and weirder.
We would like to present to you Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2019 Men’s Paris collection.
Photos courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
This women’s season, tampered by debilitating cold, held few surprises. Designers by and large stuck to what they do, but they did it so well that those of us who prefer to dig deep were satisfied.
We would like to present to you Dries Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2018 Women’s Paris collection.
Photography by Eugene Rabkin.