Our take on the Paris Men’s fashion week, with reviews of shows by Haider Ackermann, Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, Boris Bidjan Saberi, Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Lanvin, and Thom Browne.
We would like to present to you Dries Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2017 Women’s Paris collection.
Photography by Julien Boudet.
We would like to present to you Dries Van Noten’s Fall/Winter 2017 Men’s Paris collection.
Photos courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
We would like to present to you Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2017 Women’s Paris collection.
Photography by Julien Boudet
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2017 Men’s collection, Paris.
A little over two years ago Ann Demeulemeester announced her retirement from her signature label. After the initial shock subsided, the question of succession inevitably came up. That’s when Sebastian Meunier, a Parisian designer who has had a long tenure at Margiela before joining Ann Demeulemeester, stepped out of the shadows. Meunier spent two years at the label before Demeulemeester’s departure and has worked closely with her. But the big question remained; how could anyone fill the shoes of a designer whose style was so clear and who was so inextricably linked to her label? In other words, could there be Ann Demeulemeester without Ann Demeulemeester?
This past men’s fashion week was marked by a sense of schizophrenia more than anything else. Half of the shows in Paris were held in opulent palatial spaces and the other half in basements stripped of everything but their concrete foundations. The reactions of critics and buyers were similarly split. The editors I spoke with mostly shrugged shoulders and talked of consistently lowering expectations, while buyers thought the season more than solid.
Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2016 Men’s collection, Paris.
Photographer: Wenjun Liang, Model: Yudu Zheng @ IMG, Stylist: Christine de Lassus @ Art Department, Stylist Assistant: Armando Figueredo, Make Up: Miguel Lledo, Hair : Shinya Nakagawa
“Nothing,” answered a prominent New York buyer when I asked her what she liked during this past men’s fashion week. While I wouldn’t go this far, the Spring/Summer 2016 season was decidedly mixed. The overarching question, which began forming in my head during the first day of shows in Paris was, “What makes a good collection?” Is it the theme or its execution? Do we look for a designer to tell an interesting story, to interpret a theme worth exploring through clothes, or to produce beautiful, interestingly constructed garments? Ideally, both.