We would like to present to you Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2018 Women’s Paris collection.
Photography by Eugene Rabkin.
This past June in Paris I was sitting in the lobby bar of the InterContinental hotel, catching up with a prominent boutique owner after the Haider Ackermann menswear show. She was in dour spirits. “How am I supposed to sell fashion when even people who go to shows don’t wear fashion?” she asked ruefully and rhetorically. She was referring to the way the continuing casualization of style has been taking a toll on designer fashion at large. She was right. Today, one can see fashion insiders sporting Adidas track pants or a Nike jacket worn by a so-called “fashion person,” as likely as say a Rick Owens leather or a Celine bag. Last season, Instagram feeds of street style photographers were flooded with images of fashion people in Thrasher magazine t-shirts. This time the trend seemed to pivot in a new direction, as time after time I spotted attendees in various band t-shirts – Hole, Pink Floyd, Nirvana, and so on.
Fashion is often shunned by the thinking types. It is considered frivolous, shallow, and materialistic. And so much of it is. But there is something in the word “materialistic” that is not all bad. At its root is something grounded, tangible, graspable. There is something to be said for ownership. In its truest, considered form there is something like strength of conviction in ownership, a passion of sorts, and a deep sense of appreciation. Collecting is the most passionate form of ownership, a pursuit that is not all that shallow if carefully examined. Ownership and collecting are loaded with history and experience, with memory of things past, with respect to those who have created what you own. There is no shame in ownership of garments, and there is no shame in relating to material things, be they clothes or otherwise. In our rental culture, from streaming services to Rent the Runway to constant reselling, the pride of ownership and a sense of care that true ownership implies is diminishing in favor of display. Everything is transient, exacerbated by social media, especially Instagram.
The Iceland-based designer Sruli Recht has been making otherworldly products for many years before ECCO Leather invited him to bring his science fiction mind to its innovation labs. We already wrote about APPARITION, the translucent leather that Recht created there. Yesterday, ECCO Leather unveiled a new material that Recht developed with its team, Dyneema® Bonded…
When Supreme started making clothes in 1994, its ethos was crystal clear. It was a downtown skate brand for downtown skaters.
This Friday, September 8th, we will be hosting an intimate gathering for Geoffrey B. Small, whose artisanal designs have found a loyal audience over the years of his working in the Venetto region of Italy. During the event you will be able to examine Geoffrey’s work in person. A representative of the brand will be on hand from 4 to 8 p.m., to personally guide you through the collection.
Last week the Business of Fashion published my Op-Ed lamenting the exodus of creative labels like Thom Browne and Proenza Schouler, who decided to move their shows from New York to Paris.
Closet Case is an multi-brand concept store for menswear, including shoes, eyewear, fragrances, and lifestyle objects from the likes of Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Song for the Mute, and Juun J among others debuting for the first time in the region.