And so it was on again, amidst confusion as to what designers should be designing and whom they should be catering to.
The fashion calendar is getting weirder and weirder.
We would like to present to you Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2019 Men’s Paris collection.
Photography by Matthew Reeves.
This past summer Raf Simons held a show in New York City’s Chinatown that was ostensibly based on the movie Blade Runner. The presentation had plenty of Runner-esque elements; the darkness, the wetness were reflected in the umbrellas and the raincoats that Simons showed. But there was one element in the collection that made no sense at all – the New Order and Joy Division graphics that Simons used liberally throughout have nothing to do with Ridley Scott’s iconic sci-fi film, at least nothing I could discern. Simons showed the same graphics by Peter Saville, whom he is friends with, that he showed in his seminal Fall/Winter 2003 collection, “Closer, “ named after a Joy Divison album.
The curated vintage website Byronesque, run by Gill Linton, has landed at Opening Ceremony in New York. It is the first time that Byronesque presents menswear, capitalizing on the hot market for vintage Raf Simons and Helmut Lang. The pop-up store also includes some pieces from the short-lived cult London brand Vexed Generation, and a dedicated to room to Margiela’s iconic womenswear pieces. But Linton’s venture is not just about commerce – she sources what she loves, so we don’t expect her hawking vintage Hermes bags any time soon. “I was very careful not to have any filler here,” Linton told us when we visited the space yesterday. The pop-up will go on until July 23rd with stock replenished as rack space allows.
If I had to summarize this past menswear season, it’d be the one of plenty of good product and few good ideas. It was neither weak nor strong, pretty much in tune with what I have come to expect of fashion as of late.
Men’s fashion has been now thoroughly splintered into parts that cater to the youngsters and to the adults, and nowhere has this been more evident than at Pitti Uomo in Florence, where the bulk of the trade fair itself is devoted to traditional menswear, and where three designers that are of interest to the young were showing – Gosha Rubchinkiy, Visvim, and Raf Simons.
We would like to present to you Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2017 Men’s Paris collection.
We would like to present to you Raf Simons’ Spring/Summer 2017 Men’s collection at Pitti Uomo.
Capturing the nineties moment as a young, skinny, intimidatingly cool, raw, isolated, and underground night rider, Robbie Snelders was in the right place at the right time. Some 20 years ago his life took a dramatic turn and landed him in the then-emerging menswear brand, Raf Simons. He represented then, and still does now, the essence of that era and everything that the brand stood for in its early days. Fashion being the mirror of the zeitgeist and of tendencies within society, Snelders’ style became a trademark for youth culture around the world.
This morning we have learned that Raf Simons will join the next edition of Pitti Uomo, the premier menswear trade fair in Florence this June. This is certainly exciting news and we are intrigued to see what Simons cooks up, as Pitti Uomo has unrivaled access to Florentine public spaces.