We would like to present to you Thom Browne’s Fall/Winter 2018 Men’s Paris collection.
Photography by Eugene Rabkin.
Our take on the Paris Men’s fashion week, with reviews of shows by Haider Ackermann, Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester, Boris Bidjan Saberi, Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Lanvin, and Thom Browne.
ABYSS – with Chesea Wolfe. Shot on the Red Hook waterfront in Brooklyn, New York. Photography – Ellinor Stigle, Styling – Eugene Rabkin, Hair – Nero (Yuhei Nerome), Makeup – Takahiro Okada, Photo assistance – Melissa Lopez-Leach | Styling assistance – Jenni Hensler & Patrick LaDuke
Yesterday, Thom Browne presented a capsule menswear collection for the inaugural men’s fashion week in New York. The presentation, titled The Officeman, was held at nine in the morning, but Browne is one of the very few designers whose work demands such commitment from the fashion crowd.
The presentation was held in what was essentially a concrete cube. The line was long as only twenty people at a time were allowed in (the complimentary coffee and croissants helped). But it was well worth it. Once you stepped inside you found yourself in a completely mirrored room. In it was an office desk with a typewriter and some stationary items, all polished like heirloom silver on a wedding day.
“Nothing,” answered a prominent New York buyer when I asked her what she liked during this past men’s fashion week. While I wouldn’t go this far, the Spring/Summer 2016 season was decidedly mixed. The overarching question, which began forming in my head during the first day of shows in Paris was, “What makes a good collection?” Is it the theme or its execution? Do we look for a designer to tell an interesting story, to interpret a theme worth exploring through clothes, or to produce beautiful, interestingly constructed garments? Ideally, both.